Being an owner of a third generation family floor business, I have seen flooring stores come and get all the time. I have seen gimmicks and tricks from vendors, representing their flooring products with impressive statistics as well as new “technologies” to guide people into how “their” product is better than the next. Sometimes the changes in product are actually worthwhile and do work, but others are just plain non-sense.
Let’s mention some things you may not know when it comes to hardwood flooring toronto, both built and solid hardwood.
Did you know that wood flooring has a satisfaction too? Wood flooring will perform best when the indoor natural environment in which it is to be installed has a relative humidity array of 35 to 55 percent and a temperature range from 58 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. This is about the same comfort selection that we as humans enjoy.
Let’s talk about the first thing you should do as an installer and the home owner. Ready for this… READ THE GUIDANCE FIRST! Before you go gung ho and rip open the actual boxes, as most men do, take 10 minutes and look into the complete instructions for the material provided. There should be a copy in which comes in every box of material. Sit back, have a beer, and also READ!
Now that we have that clearly understood, you need to LOOK AT to know what to EXPECT!
1 . Acclimation: The moisture content belonging to the wood and subfloor must be within 2-4 percentage parts of each other and the subfloor must not exceed 12% moisture written content. The farther the percentage points are away from the subfloor moisture percentage, the more problems you will have. For proper acclimation, material must achieve room temperature (65-80 degrees F) for 24 hours PRIOR to installation. This means that the heat has to be on and doing work way before you try to install the flooring. To get proper acclimation, store the material according to the manufacturer’s directions. The instructions can specify whether to store opened or unopened and no matter if to store in the center of the room or at the edges. This potential buyers into the next big topic of moisture content.
2 . Seepage Content: What is the ideal moisture content of the actual hardwood product? Every manufacturer will very slightly, but the common approved moisture content in the hard wood flooring itself needs to be between 6-9%. For example , if the moisture content of the underfloor is 12% and the hardwood flooring is 9% there is a 3% difference between the two wood products, which is in the figures tolerance of installation. Although some movement can be expected even in this kind of range, dramatic expansion and contraction can happen outside of all these measurements. There are several electronic moisture meters available on the market to test the particular moisture content of the hardwood and subfloor. These are generally some sort of pin probe type meter and they can give you an immediate studying of your wood’s moisture level. It is very important that it is set to the types of wood that you are installing and that you take moisture measurements via several boxes of material and from several areas of typically the subfloor throughout the area that is to be installed.
3. State Control: Climate control might be the single most common reason for buyer dissatisfaction with their hardwood purchase. It is CRITICAL, that the proper temp and humidity level be maintained throughout the life within the hardwood installation. Improper climate control will result in the material irritation in the summer and shrinking, or gapping, in the winter. Without proper state control within the house, gapping and shrinking will definitely appear. In the Northwest we do not have a huge problem with this issue unless you will find a device used in the home which dries out the air to the extreme amount like a wood stove. This is why a pot involving water is ALWAYS recommended to be kept on the wood stove whenever using it as a heat source. The pot of water will keep moisture in the air. Special Note: Some products that are designed with HDF cores, are more stable and less prone to expanding along with contracting.
4. Floating Floors: A key thing people pass up when installing floating floors is to allow for an development gap around the room. Just as real dimensional lumber increases and contracts, so does your floor. There must be enough space still left at vertical surfaces, like walls and posts to provide for this movement. The larger the area the more space that is required. Concept #1 – Always leave the required expansion gap considered necessary by the manufacturer. Rule #2 – If your installer affirms that it is not necessary, fire them and refer to rule leading.
You can cover all expansion gaps with wood wall membrane base or quarter round wood trim or a combined the two.
5. Expansion Joint: Expansion joints are almost always essential between rooms, where a room meets a hall or maybe in large expanses. You can use a “T” molding during these areas to allow for the floor expansion and contraction.
6. Fluid Control: Here is a big one! Moisture in the subfloor, referred to as “hydrostatic pressure or vapor emissions”, is a MAJOR basis for flooring failures. The subfloor is not to exceed 65% relative humidity. There are several moisture meters that can be used on the floor that supply accurate readings, or a calcium chloride test, used for “concrete floors”. If your wood subfloor is above 12% which has a meter, do not lay the floor. If your wood subfloor is certainly above 12% then you have to find out why – it might be a new floor and just needs to dry out. If you have concrete floors, you will need to find out the source of the moisture. If you still cannot discover why the floor is above 12%, don’t use hardwood. Interval. I mean it… you will kick yourself. If your floor is normally OK to install, remember to always float an engineered floors over 8 mil plastic when going over concrete in an attempt to eliminate and minimize water vapor coming through the concrete floor floor.